Trekking through Theth, Albania
Spontaneous trip into the Albanian Alps featuring an unexpected tour guide: Following a friendly dog through the mountains in search of a waterfall.
November 15-16, 2022
Early in the morning, a hired driver came to pick us up from our guesthouse in Shkodёr to take us into the mountain town of Theth (pronounced Teth). Snaking up the narrow mountain roads in a Mercedes-Benz Sprinter van (a common substitute for buses here in Albania), we passed several shepherds tending to their small herds of sheep and cows. Catching glimpses of the mountain tops peeking through the rolling clouds, we soon began to understand why the Albanian Alps are so highly regarded.
One of the main attractions in Albania is the hike from Valbona to Theth. It’s supposed to be an exquisitely beautiful hike over a mountain pass between the two mountain towns. Unfortunately, because it starts to get colder and wetter in the mountains after the start of November, this hike is not recommended in the off-season.
Instead, the owner of our guesthouse in Shkodёr, Florian, had made arrangements for our transportation to and from Theth (20 euros per person), as well as for accommodations at a guesthouse for the night, including breakfast and dinner (30 euros per person). Florian told us that while we shouldn’t attempt the whole hike, the weather should still be good enough to visit Theth and do a bit of hiking.
Aside from the few other travelers at the guesthouse, it felt like we were the only non-residents in the town. Only a few hundred people live in Theth and by this point, the majority of them had already vacated the mountains for the winter season. The few that do choose to stay in Theth must stock up ahead of time and buckle in for the whole ride. That being said, the town seemed to be almost completely deserted—but we didn’t mind considering just how congested it would be had we come during peak season.
After getting settled in our room at the guesthouse, we mapped a route to Theth National Park and walked down the winding roads into the heart of the little town of Theth. We had some trouble distinguishing where the national park was as there were very few signs and no designated boundaries. It wasn’t anything like a national park in America where you couldn’t miss the entrance if you tried. Needless to say, there was no entrance fee to pay.
Once we picked a general direction to walk in, we followed a dirt road through a quaint congregation of small farmhouses situated on little plots of land bordered with wooden fences. It was like walking straight onto a page of a fairy tale book.
Along the way, a little friendly dog began to follow us after bounding across one of the yards and through a post and rail fence. There was no clear attempt at trying to contain her in the yard, so we figured the owners didn’t mind if she wandered a little. And let me tell you, she sure did wander.
Honey, as we eventually deemed her—matching her warm brown coat and sweet demeanor—followed us for the entire hike. Maybe I shouldn’t say follow, because she ended up leading the way for most of the hike. I’m not sure if she has ventured that far before, but it sure seemed like she had. Accompanied by a dog that quickly became our faithful companion, it felt even more like we were in a fairy tale. The only differing plot points were that Honey couldn’t talk and we weren’t embarking on a heroic quest.
Just as we had trouble finding the park itself, the hike was not very well marked either and we had to make a few guesses about where to go. At one point, we realized that we were walking in a dried-up river bed instead of the path. After some recalculating, we followed Honey over some laddered hedges (yes, she could even climb ladders) to a raised path behind someone’s property. A woman who happened to be walking past kindly pointed us in the right direction, and shortly after, a man in his yard also asked if we needed help.
About 10 minutes later, we saw the same man on the trail taking a picture of the mountainous valley through the parting clouds. At this point, we actually did need guidance and he kindly explained where each trail led, their conditions, and how long it would take. On par with many of the other interactions we have had with Albanians, it almost seemed like everyone was going out of their way to help us.
With Honey still leading the way, we crossed bridges, followed streams, walked along narrow cliffside paths, and waded through small fields of ferns before arriving at a waterfall. The waterfall itself was a bit lackluster after visiting some of the most magnificent waterfalls in the world while living in Hawaii but it was worth seeking out nonetheless. From what I’ve seen, there are much more impressive waterfalls along some of the longer hikes in the area.
Even though the peaks of the surrounding mountains were hidden by clouds for the majority of the hike, the views were still astonishing. It’s hard to imagine how much more impressive they would be with clear skies.
Up until this point, we had been lucky with the weather because it was a pleasantly cool temperature for hiking and we didn’t feel a drop of rain. It then started to get a bit cloudier and a few sprinkles of rain began to fall, so we decided it was best to head back.
On our way back, Honey got the zoomies and began galloping back and forth across a small clearing, stopping only to splash around in the nearby stream. Caroline and I couldn’t help but laugh and let her have her moment—even if she did get us a little wet in the excitement. Dogs truly are the same everywhere you go.
At the end of the trail, as we were crossing back into the village, an elderly woman shuffled toward us from across her yard waving her arms and saying something in Albanian. It was clear that she was attempting to help us so we tried to make it clear that we were returning from an out-and-back hike and now knew where to go. We figured she assumed that we had come all the way from Valbona and would need help navigating our way into Theth. I’m sure this is a common interaction during peak season, but it was yet another example of a kind Albanian who was eager to help.
On our way back through the dirt roads of the village, I dreaded the moment we would have to part ways with our little canine companion. At one point, we turned around and Honey was no longer following. I’m not sure where she ended up going, but I assume she returned home. It’s funny to think that her family will never know the extent of all her adventures.
Just as we approached the edge of the village, it began to rain heavily. Instead of walking 30 minutes back to the guesthouse in a downpour, we decided to stop in for a snack at a nearby hotel—one of the last places open and serving food for the season. We ordered grape leaves (a standard order of ours when available), vegetarian kebabs, and a caesar salad. Of course, we were also served fresh bread because a meal wouldn’t be complete without it in Albania.
Once the rain cleared up, we headed back up the road to the guesthouse. Seeking refuge in the toasty gazebo, we basked in the warmth of the fire until we were eventually served dinner. We made the mistake of eating a little too close to dinner time, but that didn’t stop us from indulging in all the delicious food offered. The feast of a meal included soup, salad, fresh vegetables, homemade bread, some sort of fried cheese dish, savory yogurt dip, and sweet tangerines.
Tired from hiking and a food-induced coma, it was easy to go to bed at a very reasonable time later that night. The next morning, we were served a breakfast almost as elaborate as dinner the night before. We were then picked up by the same driver that dropped us off in Theth and rode back to Shkodёr to catch a bus to Tirana, our next stop in the trip. Although we were only there for about a day, it was well worth the cost and the risk of less-than-ideal weather conditions for the chance to visit the unique mountain town of Theth.
From just our brief introduction to the Albanian Alps, I couldn’t help but feel their allure calling me to return someday to see this charming little mountain town and its surrounding wilderness in all its glory. Our short but stunning hike was enough to convince me to put the full trek from Valbona to Theth on my hiking bucket list. With luck, maybe Honey will still be leading tours and I’ll even get to see her again.